Down Under

Hello From Down Under!

We are sitting on the deck of our Gunya Maia rental cabin in Suffolk Park – outside of Byron Bay enjoying a wonderful rich cup of Ashton’s coffee from the Farmer’s Market in Bangalow.

Bangalow is a little artsy town on the top of the hill above Byron and a great little side trip up into the Highlands.

I find myself listening to the birds come alive and smelling the essence of the kaffir lime tree in the yard… and having my first glass of the day, a glass of Byron Bay Ginger Cranberry Necktar. ( Don’t worry: It’s on the list of what to duplicate back home!)

Last evening we sat under the stars – listening to Adele and sampling some of Australia’s wonderful cheeses and wines from the Hunter Valley.

Four of our favorites so far:

Pear Tree – Milk Maids Pinot Gris

The Little Wine Company – Sangiovese Rose

Piggs Peake – House of Sticks Shirz

Tyrrell’s – Lost Block Cabernet 

And there’s something new for me that I must bring back to our little restaurant world:

Labna – a lovely rich and salty Yogurt cheese with the consistency of mozzarella…

WOW!!!!!

If I have to pick one find on this journey – that would be it!

Our first night here was in Palm Beach – a sleepy little community about an hour and a half outside of Sydney. We sat on the deck of this beautiful old stone and wood home enjoying family and friends and the view of the old boat shed.

Marie whipped up a lovely salad and I ventured into the local prawns with a kaffir lime, garlic and sweet chile glaze. What a way to spend an evening!

The weather has been spotty at best so driving into the country and finding lovely products and produce to start the evening’s test kitchen has been the focus of the day. (Looking for the elusive Koala has been right up there on the list. But it is day 6 and not a one in sight!)

Let me tell you – finding an abundance of ingredients to have at any meal is will put you in the poor house in a matter of minutes. These country roads are a “Farm To Table” paradise.

Scott is off working on his prints with Andrew Kidman at his charming little farm up in the hills of Uki. We wondered driving up there, why a surf photographer, filmmaker would live this far out from the coast. Then we arrived only 30 minutes later to find that not only was the drive up from Byron Bay a hop and skip, but the views and aromas could suck any sea faring bloke right in!

My advice? Start by the sea and, when the rain comes in, go to Nimbin for some good old stuck in the 70's happiness. Even the owls cruise in for some action. You know me and the sea don't like to part ways for anything… But when to rain comes - it comes!!!

We headed to the Highlands for some Koala luvin.... The koala pictured here is Constable. He was rescued by the local police- hence the name!

He is blind from the various diseases affecting the Koala and lives at the rescue sanctuary in Lismore.

We saw the Koalas being cared for at the sanctuary. What a wonderful day!!!!

So here we are, smiling big and bellies full, having eaten a wonderful meal on top of the valley at a "Farm to Table" restaurant called Harvest.

What a delicious and amazing adventure it’s been.

Bumpin in the Bayou

Well what a tough month it has been.

We’ve been traveling here and there just to tempt the tummy…

No sooner had we returned from our stormy Mexican fiesta than I jumped right back in the saddle and headed to the French Quarter for food, jazzy blues, history and community support.

The Brad Pitt 9th Ward project is so special - a floating house and all.

I believe that one of these celebrity chef's should take their talents to the hard hit areas so that tourists will venture out of your comfort zone to really support the need. (Are you listening Mr. Pitt, Ms. Spicer, and Mr. Besh?)

Moving On…

New Orlean's isn't big on wayfaring but they sure are friendly and kind with directions. Southern hospitality is always lovely.

So here are some of my top spots from this trip:

Cafe Dumonde - Our first morning treat came from the ever bustling shop ( a little bit of a tourist trap but for good reason…) 800 Decatur St. on the river in the Quater. Great coffee and beingets and that's it - who needs anything else to start your day

Lola's - Best paella and the most mouth watering, buttery smooth chocolate cake i ever have wrapped my tongue around… 3312 Esplenade (A little bit of a drive but well worth it - Have the Sangria!)

Atchafalaya Restaurant - The best meal of our trip - Fried green Tomatoes. Awesome Bloody Mary with pickled beans and ockra 901 Louisiana Ave - over by the Garden District off Magazine Street

The Gumbo Shop- for a quick lunch of traditional gumbo. 630 St Peter's St. (By the church and there is one of the oldest bars on this street Pat Obrien's and the Old Absinthe House)

Try a Sazerac - my new favorite cocktail !!!! Rye and bitters, splash of pernod to season the glass, a little sugar, twist of lemon and 3 ice cubes.

Bayona- The best I had in my quest… Beautiful courtyard and great staff 430 Dauphine St

The last few “musts” for any trip to the Bayou:

Go to Frenchman St for music any night there are bars and music venues bumpin!

Get your hair done at Urban Angel on Magazine St for a great color and cut .....

Shop on Magazine St for anything fun and funky or sweet.....

Fried alligator at Cochon

Spicy grilled pork ribs with watermelon pickle with Cochon

Root beer float with Catdaddy Moonshine at Cochon

Barbecue shrimp over grits with a uniquely wonderful etouffe type sauce - Dick and Jenny's

Buffet lunch at Matt and Naddie's

Charcuterie plate at Dantes

Pickled Peanuts at Dante's

Meat Loaf at Ignatius

Fried Chicken and potato salad at Willie Mays Scotch House

Praline Bacon at Elizabeth's

Coffee at Croissant d'or

Muffuletta and off beat food items at Central Grocery

THE CRESENT CITY FARMER"S MARKET - support the community wherever you are or go....

Best Sazerac at Atmosphere

Best Sazerac the Swizzle Stick Bar

Best restaurant tee shirts - Lucy's Retired Surfer's Bar or the Cochon "corn star"

Best Local Art - Jackson Square

My favorite stop for bloody's in the afternoon - Pirates Alley

Favorite late night - D.B.A. or anything on Frenchman Street and don’t forget Vaughn's on Thursdays

Favorite dive bar - Buffa's on Esplenade

Favorite wine shop/bar - W.I.N.O.

The Best Shoe store ever: Trashy Diva on Chartres St.

Best thrift shopping: Bargain Center on Dauphine and the other Bywater shops

Hotel i wish I stayed at: Loft 523

Best Salon (and you know that's what really get's me to the Bayou) - Urban Angels on Magazine

Insider Tip: If you want the real deal last call spot go to Buffa's on Esplenade but do it before the bartenders tip the bottle al little too hard but this was our last night cap spot every night and they remember your libation of choice when you walk in the door. Nothing fancy!!!!

Port of Call Best burgers even though I don't eat them - I could tell by the crouds, the referals and the cases of empty meat on the street every night. Located on Esplenade across from our hotel

Melrose Mansion - ask for the honeymoon suite and you will experience the most beautiful nights sleep without breaking the bank.

Places We Wish We Tried On This Trip

Saturn Bar - we tried and tried and will try again

Upperline and Restaurant Patois - heard the chef's hit up the Tuesday markets!!!!!

Gautreau's

Mandina's

My favorite spot which I missed this trip -Atchafalaya - they don't get the press they deserve!!!!

Lola's Chocolate cake - still hoping for the recipe!

Elizabeth's for prailine bacon breakfast - 601 Gallier st. in Marigny

Mat & Naddie's is like something we would open if we ventured south - 937 Leonidas St on the river way down by Tuelane

Brigtsen's and Dante's on dante street - referred by many

Cochon… Unfortunately, the chef and his side kick's were the most impersonal and uninviting people I met on the trip so we opted out and went to August for a truly opulent and romantic meal.

We did support the Cresent City Farmer's Market at a benefit food tasting with Alice Water's - as my staff refer's to me as ghetto waters for my like minded view on food and life and community service, It was a fullfilled dream before I die to meet her . She was everything and more and I am still bubbly over the experience....

Vieques

Enjoying The View From Vieques, Puerto Rico       

So here I am sitting poolside sipping a cold frosty beer watching the waves roll in.

Yes, there is surf in Vieques....

Bravos De Boston couldn't be a finer place to unwind. Stop in town early morning for some fresh pastries and possibly a cerveza, if you are so inclined. Not sure of the name of the joint, but just go to the center of Isabella. Look for the lazy days of Cuba when sitting on the stoop chillin was a perfect way to enjoy a sunny day. Don't ask for anything fancy just straight up is how they poor it here and at our other favorite watering hole, El Sombrero. 

Don't let the drunken chatter fool you, the wine selection in the back (temperature controlled room) is the furthest thing from shabby. The prices on the Don Piedro can''t be beat. Try the two star, it's lighter.

If you are hankerin’ for some Labrador ribs head to the Blue Crab and your whole experience will bring you back to Normandy.

If you want to try something off the beaten path (even for Vieques) head over the Barefoot Bistro and have Nicole whip up whatever comes in that day.

Now for my favorite part: Pack some Coronas in the cooler and bring a couple strawberries ( the crabs are fascinated by them) and head to Garcia Gate for some of the most beauteous sandy coves you will ever set your eyes on. Stop at Blackbeard’s snorkel shop and pick up gear and a guide to the beaches and explore.

Get Abe on the horn and take the trip to Bio Bay. His humor and knowledge with take you to another place. Just don't forget the eco-friendly bug repellent ( eucalyptus and baby oil seems to do the trick)

If you want to surf, go to the North and drive to the Vieques Humane Society. Make a donation the head to the beach by the horse track. if you need to rent a board, Playa Valatos in Isabellas rents boards and the guy is super nice!

If you can swing renting the the Bravos Boys - just do it.

Off season is definitely quieter, but private beaches and discounted rates will leave you whipping up your own little cucina in a beautifully appointed kitchen . We just finished a garlic, onion, tomato and gouda frittata layered with the mofongo from last nights doggie bag. Sitting on the patio looking at a rainbow over the horizon sipping some wonderful Caribbean coffee while wondering if we have the energy to do much more than this. I don’t think we really need to….

Surf Sun Sayulita

Tacos, Surf, and Sun in Sayulita, Mexico

Back tracking a bit to find the best taco via Pacific Mexico.

Surf and sun aside, the coast north of Puerto Vallarta is place to begin searching for the best taco stand. The little sleepy town of Sayulita is a great place to start. Ivan's Tacos on the main road will keep you craving but only after 6pm. What's a girl to do all day long?

Head to Tacos Vicki in La Penita.

La Penita hosts the Thursday Market, so take the drive from Vallarta or Sayulita early on Thursday and walk the main road by the bus station with your eyes peeled for Tacos Vicki. The Thursday market can fill your rental up with anything your heart desires. Personally, I find the end of the walk through the market yields the best finds. I picked up a candelabra on the first trip and when I returned I was on a mission for a vintage Mexican mortar and pestle and walla. The same candelabra man hooked me up!

There are many options for accommodations in Sayulita. The second time we chose the Sayulita Trailer Park. If the view is what makes your spot 4 stars, and you love opening your front door to coffee and chest high surf, this is paradise. If you want the works, opt for a private rental for whatever suits your needs. Sayulitalife.com is the site for whatever you need. When you get sick of Tacos, head to Rojo Dragon for the absolute best fried rice outside of China. (I am not kidding.) Happy hour 2-for-ones set the mood for any evening and the staff is the friendliest in town. (Look for the music schedule so as not to miss the live Reggae night.)

Go to Dorado Rentals and rent an old Thing or Volkswagen Bug. Then take the ride to La Lancha and walk the heavenly white sand beach. Bring your board and if it is too small go the the Palladium resort and walk the secret path to Burros....

Adventure awaits! Go for it!

Galapagos

We started on the mainland - surfing the coast from Montanita to the pristine and empty spots along the coast. Then we hooked up with our friends, Mia and David to find not only the best breaks but the most amazing aloe massage and chocolate cheesecake (It was to-die-for ….Who would of thought?)

When the surf has died or you’re just plain wiped, head to the beach for ceviche right out of the sea and a grande Pilsner to wash it down. Stay out of town at the Casa Del Sol ($20 a night and includes breakfast) Just make sure you get a second floor room. If you want to be closer to the sea, Randy's friends in front of the Casa have cute little cabinas ($30 a night but go ahead and splurge) Randy can also arrange to pick you up and take you back to the Airport. The flight gets in late but I suggest taking the ride to the sea and waking up with the sound of waves, not traffic...

If you go into town - check out the Funky Donkey for the best Caparihna in town. The food is made with flavor, love, and a grill right in the middle of the patio. Don't forget you are in South America so the wine’s cheap and plentiful.

Wherever you find yourself, remember to enjoy your adventure!